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Delaware Flora

Plants

Natives to celebrate and invasives to avoid in the Delaware Piedmont.

Piedmont Flora

Native Plants of Delaware

The Appalachian Piedmont region of northern Delaware supports a rich diversity of native wildflowers, trees, and shrubs. These species are adapted to our soils and climate, require less maintenance, and provide essential habitat for local pollinators and wildlife.

American Holly

American Holly

May – June

Ilex opaca

Delaware’s state tree, the American Holly is a slow-growing evergreen with glossy, spine-tipped leaves and bright red berries that persist through winter. It provides essential cover and food for songbirds and small mammals during the coldest months and is a striking specimen tree for native landscapes.

Delaware Native · Blooms May – June

American Holly

Ilex opaca

Height
15–30 ft in gardens; old trees reach 40 ft or more
Light
Full sun to part shade
Soil
Moist, acidic, well-drained
Wildlife
Winter berries for robins, cedar waxwings and mockingbirds; caterpillar host for Henry's elfin butterfly

Delaware has claimed the American holly as its state tree since 1939, when the state led the nation in shipping holly wreaths. Hollies are either male or female: only females bear berries, and they need a male tree nearby to pollinate them. Ask the nursery which you're buying — one male will serve several females.

Give it room and time. American holly grows slowly and resents being moved once established, so choose its spot with care. Its dense evergreen branches shelter birds all year, and the berries hang on well into winter, when they become food at the hungriest time of year.

Winterberry Holly

Winterberry Holly

May – June

Ilex verticillata

A deciduous native holly that drops its leaves in fall to reveal stems crowded with bright red berries, which hang on well into winter. A natural fit for wet spots and rain gardens, and a favorite of cedar waxwings and other winter birds.

Delaware Native · Blooms May – June

Winterberry Holly

Ilex verticillata

Height
6–10 ft
Light
Full sun to part shade (more sun, more berries)
Soil
Moist to wet, acidic; handles poor drainage
Wildlife
Winter berries for cedar waxwings, catbirds, and thrushes; spring flowers for native bees

Like American holly, winterberry comes as male and female plants, and only the females bear berries. Plant a male within about 40 to 50 feet; one male can pollinate six to ten females. Nurseries sell matched male varieties for each female, so ask which to pair with yours.

Cut branches last for weeks indoors and make a native stand-in for the oriental bittersweet so often used in fall and holiday arrangements.

Eastern Redbud

Eastern Redbud

March – April

Cercis canadensis

A stunning small understory tree that bursts into bloom in early spring, covering bare branches with clusters of rosy pink flowers before heart-shaped leaves emerge. One of the earliest and showiest spring-flowering trees, it provides critical early-season nectar for native bees.

Delaware Native · Blooms March – April

Eastern Redbud

Cercis canadensis

Height
20–30 ft, often multi-stemmed
Light
Full sun to part shade
Soil
Average, well-drained
Wildlife
Early-spring nectar for native bees; caterpillar host for Henry's elfin butterfly

Redbud blooms on bare wood — along twigs, branches and even the trunk — weeks before its leaves appear, which is why a redbud in flower looks like a pink haze at the edge of the woods. It's a member of the pea family, and the flowers are edible, with a slightly tart taste that brightens a spring salad.

Redbud is a natural understory tree, happiest at the sunny edge of taller ones, and its modest size suits most home gardens. Plant it young: it doesn't take kindly to being moved once established.

Serviceberry

Serviceberry

March – April

Amelanchier canadensis

One of the first native trees to flower, covering bare branches with clouds of white blossoms in early spring. Sweet, blueberry-like fruit follows in June, and the leaves turn orange and red in fall.

Delaware Native · Blooms March – April

Serviceberry

Amelanchier canadensis

Height
6–20 ft, often multi-stemmed
Light
Full sun to part shade
Soil
Moist, well-drained; tolerates some wetness
Wildlife
Early flowers for native bees; June fruit for waxwings, thrushes, orioles, and woodpeckers

Serviceberry goes by many names. Shadbush and shadblow come from its flowers opening just as shad swim up East Coast rivers to spawn; Juneberry from its fruit. It's a small tree for all four seasons — spring flowers, summer fruit, fall color, and smooth gray bark in winter — and a fine native replacement for Callery pear.

The fruit is sweet and edible, good fresh or in pies and jam, though you'll need to pick quickly to beat the birds.

Virginia Bluebells

Virginia Bluebells

March – May

Mertensia virginica

A beloved spring ephemeral wildflower producing loose clusters of pendulous, trumpet-shaped flowers — pink in bud, opening to clear sky blue. Thriving in moist, rich woodland soils along streams throughout the Brandywine Valley, it naturalizes beautifully.

Delaware Native · Blooms March – May

Virginia Bluebells

Mertensia virginica

Height
1–2 ft
Light
Part to full shade
Soil
Moist, rich woodland soil
Wildlife
Early nectar for bumblebees, other long-tongued bees and butterflies

Virginia bluebells are spring ephemerals: they rise in early spring, bloom for a few weeks, set seed and vanish by early summer, leaving no trace until the next year. Pair them with ferns or later perennials that will fill the gap. The buds open pink and turn sky blue as the flowers mature.

Given moist, rich soil like the stream banks of the Brandywine Valley, they slowly spread into generous drifts. Divide or move them just as the foliage begins to yellow, while you can still see where they are.

Black-eyed Susan

Black-eyed Susan

June – September

Rudbeckia hirta

A cheerful, drought-tolerant wildflower with bright golden-yellow petals surrounding a dark brown central cone. It thrives in full sun and well-drained Piedmont soils, self-sows readily, and provides long-lasting summer color while attracting pollinators.

Delaware Native · Blooms June – September

Black-eyed Susan

Rudbeckia hirta

Height
1–3 ft
Light
Full sun
Soil
Average to dry, well-drained
Wildlife
Nectar for bees and butterflies; goldfinches eat the seeds in fall

Black-eyed Susan is a biennial or short-lived perennial: individual plants bloom hard for a season or two and then fade. Let a few flower heads go to seed and new rosettes fill in on their own, so a patch carries on even as its plants come and go.

Leave the dark seed cones standing into winter and the goldfinches will find them. It's an easy first native for a sunny border or a new meadow planting, shrugging off heat, drought and poor soil.

Joe-Pye Weed

Joe-Pye Weed

July – September

Eutrochium purpureum

A tall, stately native perennial producing large, vanilla-scented domes of dusty pink-purple flowers. A powerhouse pollinator plant that acts as a magnet for butterflies and bees along stream edges and woodland borders.

Delaware Native · Blooms July – September

Joe-Pye Weed

Eutrochium purpureum

Height
5–7 ft
Light
Full sun to part shade
Soil
Average to moist
Wildlife
Late-summer nectar for swallowtails, monarchs and bees

Sweet Joe-Pye weed is the woodland-edge member of its family, happier in ordinary garden soil than its cousins of wet meadows, and its flowers carry a faint scent of vanilla. The domed flower heads can reach a foot or more across and draw clouds of butterflies at the end of summer, when many other flowers have finished.

Give it the back of the border and room to stand tall. If seven feet is too much, cut the stems back by about half in late spring; the plant will branch, bloom a little later and stay shorter.

Butterfly Weed

Butterfly Weed

June – August

Asclepias tuberosa

A compact milkweed with vivid orange flower clusters that add a striking splash of warm color to sunny gardens. Essential for monarch butterfly conservation as both a nectar source and larval host plant, and remarkably drought-tolerant once established.

Delaware Native · Blooms June – August

Butterfly Weed

Asclepias tuberosa

Height
1–2½ ft
Light
Full sun
Soil
Dry to average; sandy or well-drained
Wildlife
Monarch caterpillar host; nectar for butterflies and native bees

Butterfly weed is a milkweed, and like its relatives it feeds monarch caterpillars — but unlike most milkweeds its stems carry clear sap rather than milky latex. A deep taproot makes it one of the most drought-tolerant plants in the garden, and one of the hardest to move, so set young potted plants where you want them to stay.

Be patient in spring. Butterfly weed waits until the soil is thoroughly warm and is often the last plant in the bed to appear. Mark its spot in fall so it isn't dug up by mistake.

Coral Honeysuckle

Coral Honeysuckle

April – June

Lonicera sempervirens

Our native honeysuckle: a well-behaved climbing vine with clusters of coral-red, trumpet-shaped flowers that ruby-throated hummingbirds seek out from their first spring arrival. The right choice for a fence or trellis where Japanese honeysuckle once grew.

Delaware Native · Blooms April – June

Coral Honeysuckle

Lonicera sempervirens

Height
10–20 ft vine on a support
Light
Full sun for the best bloom; tolerates part shade
Soil
Average, moist, well-drained
Wildlife
Ruby-throated hummingbirds; red berries for songbirds in late summer

Coral honeysuckle climbs by twining, so give it a trellis, arbor, or fence and a little guidance at first. Unlike its Japanese cousin it doesn't root along the ground or smother its neighbors, and it has little fragrance — its scarlet trumpets are made for hummingbirds rather than noses.

The heaviest bloom comes in spring, with scattered flowers into summer. In a mild winter it may keep some of its blue-green leaves.

Fire Pink

Fire Pink

April – June

Silene virginica

A woodland wildflower with brilliant scarlet, star-shaped blooms on slender stems — one of the few truly red native flowers of spring. Its long, tubular flowers are made for ruby-throated hummingbirds.

Delaware Native · Blooms April – June

Fire Pink

Silene virginica

Height
1–2 ft
Light
Part shade
Soil
Sharply drained; rocky or sandy slopes
Wildlife
Ruby-throated hummingbirds, its main pollinator

Fire pink is common farther south and west, but Delaware sits at the edge of its range and the state ranks it critically imperiled in the wild. Never dig it from a natural area; buy nursery-propagated plants from a native plant nursery or a plant sale.

In the garden it wants excellent drainage — a rocky slope, a wall pocket or the edge of a woodland path — and dislikes wet winter soil. Plants are short-lived but will self-sow where they're happy. Sticky hairs on the stems trap small insects, which gives fire pink and its relatives another common name: catchfly.

Avoid Planting

Delaware Banned & Invasive Plants

Every plant below is on Delaware's Invasive Plant List: since July 1, 2022 it has been illegal to sell, propagate, or transport them in the state. They aggressively displace native vegetation, damage forests, and disrupt habitat for wildlife. Please remove them where you can and choose native alternatives instead.

English Ivy

English Ivy

Invasive

Hedera helix

Introduced to the U.S. in the 1700s as an ornamental groundcover. It spreads rapidly, outcompetes native vegetation, and kills trees by creating dense, heavy, evergreen mats that choke out light and cause wind-shear damage.

Invasive · Please Don’t Plant

English Ivy

Hedera helix

English ivy came over with colonial settlers as an ornamental groundcover. On the ground it forms mats that smother wildflowers and tree seedlings. Once it climbs, it shades out a tree's own leaves and adds heavy, wind-catching weight that brings trees down in storms.

Climbing ivy is also the only ivy that flowers and fruits, and birds carry its berries into nearby woods. Cutting the vines on your trees is the single most useful step: it stops the seed supply and saves the tree.

How to Spot It

Evergreen vine with dark, glossy, three- to five-lobed leaves that climbs by tiny rootlets along the stem. It flowers and sets black berries only after it climbs — up trees, walls and fences.

How to Remove It

On trees, cut every vine at shoulder height and again at the ground, then pull the ivy back about two feet from the trunk. Leave the upper vines to wither in place rather than tearing them off the bark. Pull ground mats when the soil is moist and bag the pieces: any stem left on the ground can root.

Plant Instead

  • Pennsylvania sedge
  • Wild ginger
  • Golden ragwort
  • Christmas fern
Callery Pear

Callery Pear

Invasive

Pyrus calleryana

Including the “Bradford” pear, these trees were widely planted for their spring flowers but spread aggressively and form dense, thorny thickets.

Invasive · Please Don’t Plant

Callery Pear

Pyrus calleryana

Callery pear was planted across American suburbs from the 1960s on, mostly as the 'Bradford' variety, which was thought to set no fruit. Different varieties pollinate one another, though, and the small fruits they now produce are eaten by birds, which scatter the seeds along roadsides, fields and woodland edges. The wild seedlings grow into thorny thickets that crowd out native plants.

Older Bradford pears are also notorious for splitting apart in storms, so replacing one is often overdue anyway. Serviceberry gives the same white spring bloom, followed by berries the birds (and people) enjoy.

How to Spot It

Clouds of white, unpleasant-smelling flowers cover the tree in early spring, before the leaves open. Glossy, rounded leaves turn red to purple late in fall. Wild seedlings often carry sharp thorns.

How to Remove It

Pull small seedlings when the soil is moist. Larger trees resprout vigorously from the stump and roots when cut, so a cut tree needs follow-up — repeated cutting of the sprouts or a stump treatment. A certified arborist can advise on big trees.

Plant Instead

  • Flowering dogwood
Japanese Barberry

Japanese Barberry

Invasive

Berberis thunbergii

A popular ornamental shrub that dominates forest understories, creating dense thickets that alter soil chemistry and reduce native plant diversity.

Invasive · Please Don’t Plant

Japanese Barberry

Berberis thunbergii

Japanese barberry was planted for decades as a tough, deer-proof hedge — and the deer's refusal to eat it is exactly what lets it take over the forest floor. Researchers at the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station found far more Lyme-carrying blacklegged ticks in dense barberry than in woods without it. The thickets hold humidity and shelter the white-footed mice the ticks feed on, and clearing the barberry brought tick numbers down for years afterward.

Winterberry holly offers the same bright red winter berries without the thorns or the ticks.

How to Spot It

Dense, spiny shrub 2–6 ft tall with small, spoon-shaped leaves in clusters and a sharp spine beneath each cluster. Small, bright red berries dangle along the stems into winter. Scratch a stem: the inner wood is bright yellow.

How to Remove It

Pull or dig small plants, roots and all, wearing heavy gloves. Barberry leafs out before most native shrubs, so it's easy to spot in early spring when the soil is soft. It resprouts from roots left behind, so check the spot again the following year.

Plant Instead

  • Inkberry
  • Virginia sweetspire
Multiflora Rose

Multiflora Rose

Invasive

Rosa multiflora

A thorny, sprawling shrub that takes over pastures and forest edges, replacing native vegetation.

Invasive · Please Don’t Plant

Multiflora Rose

Rosa multiflora

Multiflora rose came from East Asia in the 1800s as a rootstock for garden roses, and in the mid-1900s it was promoted to farmers as a "living fence" and wildlife cover. Birds love the hips, and a single plant produces enormous numbers of seeds that stay alive in the soil for years. It now fills pastures, hedgerows and forest edges throughout the region.

Our native roses, Carolina rose for dry sunny spots and swamp rose for wet ones, give the same pink-to-white summer flowers and winter hips without the takeover.

How to Spot It

Arching, thorny canes that form thickets up to 10 ft across. Clusters of small, white, fragrant flowers in late spring become small red hips that last through winter. The surest sign is a feathery, fringed stipule where each leaf stalk meets the stem.

How to Remove It

Dig out young plants with as much root as possible, wearing heavy gloves and long sleeves. Established thickets resprout from the root crown, so cut the canes back, then dig out or treat the crown, and watch for new seedlings for several years.

Plant Instead

  • Carolina rose
  • Swamp rose
  • Arrowwood viburnum
Japanese Honeysuckle

Japanese Honeysuckle

Invasive

Lonicera japonica

A fast-growing, woody vine that climbs over and smothers trees and shrubs.

Invasive · Please Don’t Plant

Japanese Honeysuckle

Lonicera japonica

Japanese honeysuckle's sweet scent is part of summer in the mid-Atlantic, which is how it spread so easily: it was sold for gardens and planted along roadsides to hold soil. Keeping its leaves into winter gives it a head start on native plants each spring, and it climbs over shrubs and small trees until they collapse beneath it.

If you love a flowering vine on a fence, plant our native coral honeysuckle instead. Its scarlet trumpets are a hummingbird favorite, and it stays where you put it.

How to Spot It

Twining vine whose leaves often stay green through winter. Paired, fragrant, tubular flowers open white and fade to yellow from late spring through summer, followed by glossy black berries.

How to Remove It

Pull vines and dig out rooted runners when the soil is moist; any piece left touching the soil can root. On large patches, cutting back repeatedly through the growing season weakens it over time.

Plant Instead

  • Virginia creeper
  • Virgin's bower
Norway Maple

Norway Maple

Invasive

Acer platanoides

A non-native shade tree that outcompetes native trees, such as sugar maples, due to its dense shade and rapid growth.

Invasive · Please Don’t Plant

Norway Maple

Acer platanoides

Norway maple was a favorite street tree for much of the 20th century because it tolerates pollution, compacted soil and hard conditions. Those same traits let it escape into woodlands, where its dense shade and shallow, fibrous roots leave little room for wildflowers, shrubs or young native trees beneath it. A lawn under a Norway maple rarely thrives for the same reason.

When an old one comes down, a native red maple, sugar maple or blackgum makes a fine replacement — with far better fall color.

How to Spot It

Looks much like a sugar maple, but snap off a leaf stalk: Norway maple oozes milky white sap. Its leaves stay green into November before turning a late, dull yellow, and its paired winged seeds spread out almost in a straight line.

How to Remove It

Pull seedlings while they're small; a mature tree drops them by the hundreds. Removing a large tree is a job for a certified arborist.

Plant Instead

  • Red maple
  • Sugar maple
  • Blackgum
Oriental Bittersweet

Oriental Bittersweet

Invasive

Celastrus orbiculatus

A highly invasive vine that kills trees by girdling them and adding excessive weight, leading to windthrow.

Invasive · Please Don’t Plant

Oriental Bittersweet

Celastrus orbiculatus

Oriental bittersweet wraps trees so tightly it strangles them, and its weight pulls canopies down in snow and wind. Birds eat the berries all winter and spread the seeds widely, so one vine at a forest edge can seed a whole woodland.

A note for arrangers: the berried stems are prized for fall wreaths and centerpieces, but every discarded arrangement can start new vines. Cut branches of winterberry holly give the same bright color. If you plant American bittersweet, buy it from a native plant nursery — the two are easily confused, and they hybridize.

How to Spot It

Twining woody vine with glossy, nearly round leaves. Small clusters of flowers and fruit grow all along the stem where the leaves attach; in fall the yellow husks split to show scarlet berries. Our native American bittersweet fruits only at the branch tips.

How to Remove It

Pull seedlings and dig out the bright orange roots. On trees, cut the vines at the base and again at shoulder height; cut stems resprout, so check twice a year. Bag the berries rather than composting them.

Plant Instead

  • American bittersweet
  • Virginia creeper